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Crumbs visits: St George's Café Bar

by Dan Izzard

01 February 2019

All change for St George's concert hall with fresh new look and a menu to match...

St George’s concert hall (just off Park Street in Bristol) is nearing the end of its swanky new £6.3 million extension works, we were glad to see on a recent trip, that food and drink had top billing in a new cafe bar.

The venue has long been renowned for its musical excellence, with an impressive concert hall hosting some of the world’s greatest classical musicians over the years. The airy and light new cafe space may well become your new favourite spot to grab a coffee and cake and chow down while doing some outstanding review writing (or is that just me?).

There’s oh so much more than just sandwiches and hot drinks though, with the kitchen headed-up by French-born Oakan Brousse, a chef who has experience across a number of two and three AA rosette restaurants. It’s a full-on start for the new chef and his team, with breakfast service starting at 10am offering Insta-friendly dishes such as avocado and poached eggs on toast with chilli and lime and a parmesan crisp, and more classical (ahem) breakfast fare like the St George’s breakfast with sausage, smoked bacon, fried egg, hash browns, roasted tomato, beans, roasted mushroom and toast.

Staring out of the large glass wall on a rainy Tuesday, we dived straight into the lunchtime menu which lists a range of five dishes at around the £7.50 mark and a selection of chunky looking sandwiches. Opting for the vegan choice, we were presented with an attractively plated combination of crispy potato rosti, bright purple pickled red onion, poached egg, homemade ricotta, and a spinach and ricotta croquette. A roasted cauliflower, three-cheese sauce, almond gremolata, cauliflower pickles, sorrel, and parmesan crisp dish showed that Oakan certainly knows his way around the kitchen, producing casual dishes with clean, defined flavours and more than a flash of creative flair that complement this fresh chapter for a new look St George’s.

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